

Why not just orient it in a different way so a flat surface was touching instead of cutting a part off?


Why not just orient it in a different way so a flat surface was touching instead of cutting a part off?


Yeah that’s a terrible orientation for bed adhesion. Have you tried orienting in a different manner that provides a larger contact area with the bed?


AFAIK they did have some issues on the first of their 3rd gen printers, and only for 110VAC models, 230VAC models were unaffected. And they recognized the issue when it was discovered, fixed it, and shipped replacement parts for affected customers.
The current printers you can buy from them are their 4th gen, haven’t heard anything like that for these. They’re technically open source, but they make their own weird forked klipper version instead of just using vanilla klipper.


They’re fucked even without tariffs…


I did not know…what’s sketchy about it?


No…you can pay more for less, but at least it’s actually yours.


Eh, prusa still seems to be behind the curve, and their insistence on sticking to their old proprietary firmware instead of moving to a more modern approach with klipper and work with the huge community there is IMO a bad move.


Archived link: https://archive.is/p6ufq


Unfortunately they’ve discontinued the xmax 3, and the newer ones are slightly less open. I would have liked to get a second xmax 3, i got mine for €500 on sale it’s been an amazing deal, absolutely insane value for money.


It’s a little hard to see due to low resolution, but it looks like you have small gaps between infill lines. If that’s the case you need to reduce Z-offset to get more squish.


Have you checked that all the grub screws are properly tightened?


Check mechanical connections so it isn’t caused by slipping on gears/rods. Have many hours of printing since you gave it a good thorough service?
Also, what filament type is this?


Stay clear of anycubic, they are moving in the same direction as bambulabs.
I would go PET/PETG for everything unless you need the slightly higher temperature deflection of ASA. I have PET prints that have been outside for 2.5 years now with no discoloration or apparent issues in strength.


This isn’t a case of “gaming the system” though. “Gaming the system” implies working within the boundaries of it, but in unforeseen (but legal, or at worst slightly questionable) ways, to min/max your output. This dude just committed plain fraud.


Probably, shitty people will act shitty regardless


All printers made in the past 5 years have a purge chute and wiper.
Uuh…no, not even close to being true. There are still plenty of printers without purge chutes available on the market today.


Filament buildup on the nozzle is my guess. Could be a Z-offset/first layer squish issue, filament moisture content too high, temp too high (or too low), nozzle hitting print during travel, small amount of oozing during travel moves, worn out nozzle with uneven nozzle shape/diameter, partial clog…there’s a number of different things that can cause this.
You’re thinking of ABS/ASA, acetone does not dissolve PLA.