Sorry for the late answer. It’s this one:

https://amzn.eu/d/04M6Ih6n

Ah okay, then it makes sense to have a bit more power locally. I absolutely get what you mean. I worked in onsite IT support the first 10 years of my career and in the beginning I had an absolutely crappy hp notebook with some dualcore processor and like 500MB RAM (don’t remember the reals specs, but it felt like that). There has to be a minimum device requirements to be able to work without getting stressed by your device :D Yes it’s an exclusion and most of the time I think it’s good as it is. I also worked in an IT department of another big company and you can’t imaging what user are able to do. I - and pretty everyone who did this kind of job - could easily write a book about how dumb users can be. So it’s the easiest way just to tell people what devices to use, installing them with some MDM Software and keeping their rights as locked up as possible. I get nightmares only thinking about letting some of these guys use their personal devices in company’s network :D

So you work from home, right? May I ask what you do for a living? Just curious

Btw I asked my company for a MacBook Pro as work device. It’s absolutely silent, because it’s fan free and hooked up to my 49“ ultrawide monitor. But as I said in another comment I only use the device to connect remotely to other devices, so I don’t need much power locally.

Good question. I work in IT and most things I do take place on server or more like datacenter hardware remotely. So my work device itself doesn’t need that much power. But I totally get that there are jobs that need powerful devices, as I remember from the days I worked onsite for many different customers. I am just curious

I never understood why someone would want this. I would never want to use my personal pc for work. They give me a device, install everything for me and I just work with it while not having to deal with anything. I see that like a company’s car. You drive it and don’t have to deal with it in any other way. Isn’t that great?

I literally just had my finger over the order button for one of these Nokia 3310 Remakes, but I didn’t order

Maybe that helps:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/u/0/d/1-moGrSlTVI7w-vad6vdJm2D3wruPa_xP_inucLQnpNI/htmlview#

Of course! Here is the PSU Foot:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5793825

For my PSU it was a bit too thick, but I managed to mount it anyway.

Here is the Cover I made myself:

https://www.printables.com/de/model/601820-voxelab-aquila-psu-cover-for-92mm-fans

And fan cover is just some basic 92mm cover, there are plenty out there.

The Mainboard housing also is my own creation, but I failed horribly with the screw holes for the board, so I strapped it in there using cable ties for now. I have to make another version some day that is good enough to be uploaded.

Oh yes, me too :D I got one for the waste of each material I am printing. PLA, PETG and TPU

For anyone interested in the upgrading process of my Aquila… I just posted my printer

https://lemmy.world/post/6745210

Ah okay, I already thought someone stole my design (not that it would have any financial impact, but even though I would be mad - I would at least want to be mentioned as this - even though its „just“ a remix - took hours to make). Thank you, that would be interesting :)

The old one is printed on my standard Voxelab Aquila. The new one also is printed on the same Voxelab Aquila, but heavily modified in the meantime (DirectDrive, PEI bed, Enclosure, Filament dryer, Octoprint, Electronics placed outside the enclosure for better cooling and so on…)

That’s because the base of my model is whity‘s parametric box (but from printables. It’s also linked to my model). I modified it‘s dimensions and added the divider + TPU Inserts + Logo on top, so that it fits the Retroid. But I don’t know the model from thingiverse, do you have a link? Is there a exact copy of my Retroid box?

I have all of them. Am I more 30 than others people?

I already tried that, didn’t work. I increased the runout distance and sent some M412 commands to configure everything before a test print. It then seemed to work, but when I cut the Filament to simulate a runout it didn’t work. Sending the sensor back if I can’t get it to run this weekend

I also learned about them just recently. I had to move my printer over in my homeoffice and I was a bit concerned about noise and fine dust, so I looked up what I can do and stumbled across these. Not doing that much about noise, but as I switched all of my printers fans to Noctua ones that’s not a big problem. Big advantage is my prints look cleaner and stick better to the build plate, as it is always at constant heat, even if I open my windows. And I at least think the dust stays in there, as there is no more „3D printer smell“ if you get what I mean :D Can absolutely recommend this.

It’s this one:

SUNLU 3D-Drucker-Gehäuse, konstante 3D-Drucktemperatur für ABS 3D-Drucker-Filament, Ender 3/3 PRO 3D-Drucker-Gehäuse, bietet viel Platz, feuerfest, Größe 650 * 550 * 750mm https://amzn.eu/d/dPwi2Uv

It’s actually made for 3D printers

They do, I tried. I wanted to order a HDD Flex cable for another project, but it’s very expensive. I would have to pay nearly 30€ for shipping while the cable costs around 2€ + taxes. That’s one expensive little flex cable. Was also having an eye on those wine red back covers, but even the back cover is 20€+30€ shipping. That’s 50€ just for a back cover… They really have some cool stuff, but with these shipping costs to Germany I guess I will have to stick with AliExpress.

They really do have some nice stuff. Maybe there are some parts I could use for a second one. Do you know if they deliver to Germany?

Thank you! Yes I know, but I wanted it to look like it was looking back then when I got it :)