With a bit of luck, native RTC support means 2-way comms using reolink doorbells is close at hand.

A discussion on the other site claimed that the fuck-up was in the copy that Universal sent to Mattel.
And that wrong websites frequently end up on packaging in other industries.

Mattel seem to be doing the sorry-dance for it, so no idea if it’s true. Though I’m sure Universal would be very keen to not be involved.

I’ll just re-share mine from last time.
I tend to use the Horizontal Stack. On a mobile device, I just get one stack per line.
And on bigger screens, I get multiple stacks to make use of space.

General “Going out” page:

Internet speedtest page:

I’ll write a quick gist for anyone coming along:

One gas boiler in the house, each room has a smart TRV.
PIR sensor to set room presence, each window has an opening mag sensor. HASS has a general presence sensor set.

Each room’s temperature is targeted based on presence and window status:
For each room, if person is home at all, and has been in the room for 5 mins, and the window is closed, TRV to 19, boiler on if <19.
If the room presence is negative and the window is closed, drop TRV target to 16.
If the window is open, drop the TRV target to 7.

There is a little more detail that that in the article, but that’s the basics.

Awesome work, thankyou for taking the time to do this.

I too love a metal USB stick for the keychain, and my old DTSE9 could do with a refresh!

He’s having a little more fun in the original.

z-wave may be easier than expected, as I think the devices stay linked to the hardware dongle used. (This is just from memory, mind!). But if you need to change the dongle, perhaps less fun.

imo, it will be a bit of pain to get everything inside HA, but once it’s done, you’ll be inside a platform that is pretty open, and commonly used, with lots of other people (hopefully) posting up solutions to problems before you encounter them!
And because it’s software that will run on pretty much anything, you have the reassurance that even if something crazy happened, you could just reinstall an old version.

If it were me, I’d clear an entire weekend day, power off the old kit, and work away at getting HA controlling everything.

Nice to see NC becoming involved with the board.

I don’t run that much z-wave due to cost, but I’m all for improvements and tighter integration.
Especially since when I do want to spend money, ZW works very well.

Or maybe something like this:

https://www.securemeters.com/uk/product/room-thermostats/hrt4-zw-asr/

The unit with the buttons on is a simple relay, which hass can control to turn things on and off, and use a heating control with a temperature sensor.
But if you hit the button on the front, it also gives 30 minutes of on, which can be handy if the system had issues.

Or you could have a hass controlled relay, but also leave the old controller wired in on a manual switch.
So if there was a failure, you could go back to the old control by manually flipping it over.

It’s only Virgin Media to my knowledge who does this.
Most of the other providers are happy for you to use anything that works properly for VDSL or FTTP.

Most FTTP providers fit an ONT that puts the connection back into an RJ45 ethernet connector.
Then you connect to the provider using PPPOE. Anything past the ONT, you can do whatever you like.

For most squishy remotes, you can disable the buttons by taking the remote apart, and putting tape on the underside of the rubber button.

While not strictly a QR code, I always liked that the Dolby Digital data between perforations on a film strip had a tiny Dolby logo at the centre.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sound-on-film#/media/File:35mm_film_audio_macro.jpg

You can block or disrupt communications with LEO.
But you’d need the blessing of the country’s government to pump out that much interference continuously.

A low-wiring way to do it would be to replace the bulbs with hue/similar bulbs, then just put a battery powered button in the location you want to have the controls. £10-ish for each button, plus however much the bulbs are.

Then just have the button set to toggle the lights on/off (you can also call different presets like dim etc by pressing and holding).
Then hass just directly sends the on/off commands to the bulbs.

Piston aircraft still use it. Which makes it doubly annoying when some tit in a cesna decides to circle around town at 1000’.
Not just making a noise, also cropdusting with TEL.

I unblock ads on AVForums. And honestly, the ads are either really well targeted (because I’m probably going to buy that amplifier eventually), or random ebay stuff.

If they started serving up the generic “reduce belly fat in 2 seconds with this simple trick” with some AI generated picture, I’d re-evaluate very quicly.

Perhaps he’s this guy.

I sharpen my knives with a grit block maybe every 6 months, because I want sharp knives, but was told an angle sharpener would leave me with BBQ skewers.
It’s hardly a “masterful man task”, more like 20 minutes to do a kitchen chore. Like refilling the dishwasher salt. Or cleaning the bin.

My first integration is going to be putting my standard “going out” dashboard by the front door.
Being able to glance and see UV index, temperature, rain probability is dead useful.

I can hear Connor in this image saying “I hate that bro”