TIL there’s a slicer called Lychee Slicer.
Sounds like a hot mess. Are you looking for a alternative? If yes, provide info but my off the cuff recommendation for a FDM printer is Orca Slicer.
TIL there’s a slicer called Lychee Slicer.
Sounds like a hot mess. Are you looking for a alternative? If yes, provide info but my off the cuff recommendation for a FDM printer is Orca Slicer.
On my direct drive Voron I could make it through retraction tower test prints fine with TPU, but it would always jam with retraction enabled on longer prints with my usual 0.3mm. Pulling apart the extruder would always reveal some TPU had gotten wrapped around the drive gear. Rather than try tuning until the failure went away, I just went with 0 lol.
I want to know more about the out of focus back. Specifically what seem to be some pretty beefy speakers.
If it’s heat it could also be a cooling thing. If you search the web on your search engine of choice for “<printer name> driver overheat” you’ll see what solutions the community has already come up with.
For everyone following along at home: this website is worth a click if you’ve never seen it before!
Rinsing rice does wonders. Without a rice cooker you’ll need to strain it, but it’s still worth it.
We made rice for years using this method and it is a very reliable cooking method. Rice doesn’t really leave you a lot of wiggle room though, which is where a rice cooker comes in handy. As an added bonus, some rice cookers come with water lines in them. I measure my dry rice into the cooker, rinse using the cooker, dump most of the water out, and fill to the appropriate level.
Different species of rice have very different textures and somewhat (subtle) different flavorss.
Some rice, like basmati, can be cooked using the pasta method (intentionally use way too much water and strain the excess off after the rice is cooked). I guess all rice could be cooked that way, but you would be giving up some starch.
If the print didn’t come off the bed, I don’t think adjusting z-offset will help. As prints get taller, if you’re running into issues with warping the corners will start to curl up.
Your printer definitely missed some x or y steps. Whether that was due to your drivers getting too hot and just that, or the extruder running into the print. Have you ever seen your printer do this:
It looks like you missed some x and/or y steps, which made the printer lose its orientation and make a lot of spaghetti.
Possible causes usually involve warping, the nozzle catching the wrapped up piece, and then your printer missing some steps.
Have you completed a large print before?
If nothing’s changed since you last print, including the filament, I would suspect a jam/clog. Is the extruder clicking?
So, the biggest difference in quality is the steel and hardness.
My question was rooted in how you would know the quality/hardness of the steel at time of purchase - especially as a (fairly) layperson.
I think my set is dewalt. It included taps, dies, and drill bits for M3-M7. I don’t think I’ve ever used the drills, and the have gotten a lot more use than the dies, but I think I’ve used almost everything in the kit more than once. Before kids, it was cars. Post kids, it’s mostly cheap Chinese furniture my wife buys that I have to chase threads in to get it to assembly well.
Also, for the record, you can absolutely tap plastic for a reasonably strong thread
I’ve had pretty good success sizing 3D printed holes to be interference fit. That’s how I designed/printed the bed leveling thumb wheels for my i3 clone. They backed off far less frequently than the stock metal once.
If it’s stripped, I doubt chasing the threads with a m4 tap will accomplish much. Tapping it for the next size up (m5) seems like a good choice.
What would you consider a high quality tap or die? I have a cheap(er) set that I got at home cheapo. With how little use it gets, its biggest issue is surface rust from sitting in my garage 24/7.
Was the hot end pre-assembled or did you assemble it? I suspect you have a mechanical issue, but it might just be e-steps.
Suggestions:
Pull the nozzle off, measure say 110 mm of filament upstream of your extruder motor, make a line or attach a piece of tape, extruder 100mm, and see how close to 100mm you are. No nozzle means you can do this cold so you’ve eliminated 2 variables: a nozzle clog and temp. More detailed instructions
Once you get that sorted, do a PID tune and run the 100mm extrusion test again with your nozzle attached at say 230. Different number? My money would be on a partial nozzle clog.
Finally, temp tower. Not being able to extrude below 220 seems very weird. How fast are you trying to print?
Ah, sorry. That does sound a bit hot for PLA. I still suggest a temp tower. If you’re having bed adhesion issues, have you cleaned your bed with dish soap lately? Be sure to use only paper towel to clean/dry it - not a sponge or towel. If that’s impractical, I’ve found Windex to work better than IPA.
For PETG that’s not that hot. On my i3 clone I was usually 70 bed and 230-235 nozzle. I would try a temp tower and do what looks best. Based on what you’ve said so far, temp does seem like a possible culprit.
PRC
How on Earth do you have a mix of Communism and Capitalism
Arguably, the PRC is juggling both. I don’t claim to be an expert, but there are certain capitalist undercurrents going on in the private sector along with some level of CCP tension.
https://ingenext.ca/products/boost-50
50 hp for $1k
I can’t find them right now, but there are similar things you can buy to unlock factory features at a discount.
That you’re looking for is called a flange mount. If you search your favorite search engine with “2mm flange mount” you’ll find some results. I do wonder how much torque you’ll be able to transfer, but given the shaft size I suspect you’re not looking at big loads.
They are harsh chemicals and people definitely aren’t even disposong of them correctly most of the time
This is what really gets me with resin printing :(
PrusaSlicer is a fork of Slic3r Bambu’s slicer is a fork of PrusaSlicer Orca Slicer is a fork of Bambu’s slicer and also pulls in ideas from super slicer (another PrusaSlicer fork).
In other words, they all share a common lineage. Each adds quality of life improvements over the fork, at least in theory. It’s possible those quality of life improvements will make it back upstream to the thing that was forked.
As for specific examples, Orca Slicer has a somewhat different set of tuning parameters, some unique-to-it quality things like scarf seams, built in tuning prints (temp towers, EM multiplier, pressure advance, a test to find your max flow rate, etc) a revamped UI, etc. I haven’t compared the two in a while, so it’s possible that some of this has made its way upstream by now.