These 2 boards are part of my circuit, which I want to move from my breadboard to a PCB, so I need a way to attach these boards to the PCB. Due to the fact that I want the ability to re-use these boards in other projects, and also not have them stick up from the PCB vertically, I decided to go with right-angled headers so that I have both of these features (easy plugging in/unplugging of the boards from the final PCB, and a more compact final design).

However since they will need to hang over some degree you need to look at the 2d drawing and make sure the right angle header pins are long enough to mate to the matching component on the board.

By this do you mean I need to make sure the pins on the boards will fit in the hole of the headers? I was under the impression that pin length is quite standard, much like pin separation. I believe mine are 2.54 mm because they fit nicely in my arduino headers, as well as the breadboard. I’d assume the length is also standardised. Please correct me if Im wrong.

If you are sending the board out to be made at a shop you will need to define these features and tolerances in the manufacturing layer that will export as part of the gerber file and possibly provide a 2d drawing.

By this I assume you mean that I need to make sure the boards will clear any other components on the PCB? I’ve been getting through this playlist: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZHH4G_EWhm0&list=PL3bNyZYHcRSUhUXUt51W6nKvxx2ORvUQB&index=4&t=2s

as I go through each step of the process. When he gets to the point about designing the PCB I’ll see if he mentions how to make sure I have enough clearance for all my components, otherwise I guess I’ll look for other videos explaining how to do this.

Pretty much yea thats what I want to do, but I havent started designing the PCB yet, as I wasnt sure how to create the footprints for these components.

If I’m understanding you correctly, in this case I need to kind of “work backwards” and instead of creating the footprint for the board and add pins to it, I need to create the footprint for the headers I will use, and simply mark out a region which the board will sit on so that that area is free from other components?

Thanks! Ill take some time to look into what you said and try to really understand it, but if I need some help I’ll ask you. As for how many splits a TUI might have, I dont know because I need it to be quite general so that others can use it for their own purposes. Me personally and for this specific project, Ill mostly need a bunch of columns (like blue and green in step 2) as well as the “special” windows, for my application. I’m trying to make a trello/kanban style app with ncurses and C.

This is exactly how it is. You set up your entry level filters for your desired fields in linked, and get the notifications! (EXCITEMENT)

Turns out theyre entry level jobs requiring at least 2 years experience in the field…

A few guys at my work actually just asled us what we wanted from the cafeteriawhen we were doing long fixes on their laptops (I work in a uni)

Though soon to no longer be IT, i guarantee that if you bring them cookies and coffee theyll start to love you :)

deleted by creator

1. Why use bottles rather than lutris? Whats their difference? Im asking because the one time I tried using bottles I dont think I managed to get it to work with whatever it was I was trying to install.
2. Ive never heard of portproton, but it looks like it does essentially the same thing as if you install through the steam client as a non-steam game using proton (?). If thats the case, why use it over any of the other options?

Thanks

Check out stremio

What have you done? What have you permitted?

Honestly that sounds horrible. Women scientiss?!? Whatever will they come up with next

Thanks for the clarification! As I said, this is my thesis project for my BSc in Computer Science, but I’m definitely considering a more electronics focused masters, especially given the fact I’m already searching for a job in the field of embedded systems/low level stuff. Might be a good piece of paper to have in the future :)

Thanks, I just submitted a new order for a kit of assorted ceramic capacitors. The comments in this post have been really helpful with regards to the capacitor question, I feel I understand it more now. You people are lovely :)

Thanks it actually was quite helpful to understand why I need to use such a capacitor for my chips! (Until towards the end he started getting really deep into it and my eyes glazed over)

Am I correct in assuming that my project and the chips I use do not really require me to put 3 or 4 different value capacitors in parallel instead of just one? Also, he mentions that its a good idea to use this technique on all chips, so would there be a downside to me placing a (or more) capacitor on the Vcc pin of all 3 of my chips (RTC, LCD display, Bluetooth) even though their datasheets might not specifically mention requiring them? Basically, if I have the capacitors, is there a reason to not put a decoupling capacitor on the Vcc pin of any chip in your circuit?

As for the RTC’s 32kHz clock as you can see from my diagram I didn’t connect it to anything. I was under the impression that it was unnecessary for my purpose after looking at the datasheet. Am I wrong?

I see. A new question arose from reading your reply. Theoretically, if I were to put e.g. 2x1uF electrolytic (or any type) capacitors basically in series next to the power source of a chip, does that increase reliability or is there little reward for it?

Ok, I might be dumb, but I dont get the text on the top of the meme. Anyone care to explain?

Yes, I’ll probably just be doing this on breadboards, but there is a chance I might eventually move it to a PCB (assuming I learn that part of KiCAD soon enough and have enough time to order PCBs before I need to submit). In either case, the power source of the entire system will probably be some holder/rack (not sure what they are actually called) for several AA or AAA batteries. Basically it will need to be something that a theoretical consumer would be able to replace easily - the batteries that is.

Do the problems outlined in your and other’s comments about these types of capacitors in this application also present from regular batteries, or are they usually not high voltage enough to cause problems?

I think I understood what you mean, but I’m not entirely sure about the last part:

but reducing voltages spikes caused by high frequency electronics they don’t do much

In this situation, would the RTC module be the high frequency electronic, or would the arduino be it (capacitor to protect the RTC from arduino’s power supply??)

The datasheet just has this:

DC Power Pin for Primary Power Supply. This pin should be decoupled using a 0.1µF to 1.0µF capacitor. If not used, connect to ground.

But if it really is OK to use an electrolytic one given the polarity is correct, then thats still good. Ive been looking on online stores for 1uF ceramic capacitors and I couldnt find any.