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Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: July 1st, 2023

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  • If a person is at the intro/intermediate level that advice may be sound enough. Since they’re less likely to apply proper rules to include those ranges of IP’s etc.

    Assuming it’s advising disabling it at the router/switch level and not just a per device level.

    Better would be to explain: Disable this until you’re familiar with the following concepts (see cited books/material for more info)



  • Exactly… this printer is useful honey.

    I can make parts for the printer, accessories for filament management for the printer.

    Halloween decorations… once I get the printer back online when I have this mod finished.

    Parts for another printer.

    Mounts for the brooms… when more filament comes in since I used the last of it for the parts for the new printer.

    Save 450 on a unique appliance part they’re not making anymore which now justifies the thousands I’ve spent on this thing.

    Seriously though. It is a fun hobby and if you want to just print and make things and not tinker there are plenty of good options out there. Me? I like tinkering. It’s a blast.





  • It has its strength. The downside to blender is it’s geometry based unlike Fusion and others that are parametric.

    Where this shines, for example, is when you’re defining a circle with a given radius. If it’s 4mm in a cad program and you export to STL it will be polygon based. But you can adjust the density of the export and, if you need to, scale your cad up 200%, 300%, etc and export again. Always resulting in the closest approximation of that circule in the stl or export. This way you don’t lose any fidelity. Blender does have some great tools for interpolating points in a mesh so it’s not useless either.

    The best analogy I can think of is raster and vector. Doubling the size of a vector doesn’t result in aliasing. But, likewise, doing a high quality image of something photorealistic is not great on vector.

    I use Fusion for cad modeling. The parametric design workflow allows me to adjust measurements, etc and have them show downstream, etc. But if I’m going to import something that’s already an 3d model I’ll use blender and mesh mixer to cleanup the model first.

    I’ve also used just blender when using game assets to pose a model before exporting to a mesh for use in a slicer. Since, again, it’s the tool for the job.






  • It’s not at all. I’m saying it was good then and it is now.

    It’s gotten heavier and more technical but that’s because as it goes on you learn and it gets deeper. And yet they still find a way to make it accessible even though they’re obviously still only scratching the surface.

    As a counter point via science is really good but tries to avoid the deep math as much as possible while explaining the concepts behind it. All the while it’s been pure science and less of the popular topic as a way to introduce the science.




  • Best upgrades for me was the following in order of overall impact

    Klipper
    BTT Skr mini e3v3 board
    Silicon bed spacers
    Klackender mod by KevinAkaSam
    G10 build plate
    Orbiter extruder and dragonfly hotend for direct drive
    Belted Z mod by KevinAkaSam

    More recent EBB36 canbus for the tool head mainly because it frees up some ports on the control board for other things like my Nevermore.

    For overall quality and reliability the following have the biggest impact.

    Ensuring the physical frame is as square as possible. As well as adjusting and shimming things such as folded aluminum foil under the Z extrusions to get them square with the base.

    The board and Klipper are huge since it makes it easier to use the klack probe (Klicky for ender) and the silicone spacers allow me to dial in the screws with adjust_screws.

    And skew correction because my X gantry is twisted (tested that on granite counter top) and after I’ve done everything else to ensure it’s physically right i still had to work around some of it with software.

    Now I can just fire it up and print PLA, ABS (it’s in a grow tent enclosure), PETG and TPU without any issue.

    The g10 plate works great with all of them, Klipper can compensate for any warping, build offset as long as the screws are properly adjusted (which I test every couple of months or after I’ve had a print that really didn’t want to come off.

    I’m building a trident myself right now and I’m using the “Frankender” to do it with really great quality results.