My guess, and it is just a guess… it’s a storm water control system being used as a basement drain, possibly flowing into the sewer line.

I’ve seen older houses where someone cut into the basmeny floor directly into a sewer line to put in a basement drain.

Based on you saying water was in there when it was raining, someone might have cut into the storm water mitigation line for a basement drain. Then someone tiled the floor and put a vent over the hole because that’s what they found that fits.

With older houses, a lot of times, the storm water system was tied directly into the main sewer. If that’s what this is, I’d be concerned about sewer gasses coming up from it.

Again, with only seeing one picture, it’s just a guess.

Edit: It could also just be a cleanout for the storm water drain too.

You mean protesters in uniform?

Continue reading.

Sodium Hydroxide, when exposed to Carbon Dioxide (already in the air), combines to become Sodium Carbinate.

NaOH + CO2 → Na2CO3 + H2O

Sodium Carbinate then reacts with water and more Carbon Dioxide to become Sodium Bicarbinate, which is baking soda.

Na2CO3 + CO2 + H2O → 2 NaHCO3

Not only does a Sodium Oxyde fuel cell produce electricity, it takes CO2 out of the atmosphere.

From a physics and chemistry point of view, it’s pretty cool. I’m curious how well it scales though.

Yeah, let’s do nothing and let the children of people we don’t like die. And in the meantime, let’s put other particularly vulnerable - like the immunocompromised - at risk. But we’ll sure show a handful of people how right we were the whole time.

You might want to rethink your moral compass.

Sometimes, the best you can do is explain a bad decision when you see it. The people who really want to do it will ignore you. The hope is to get the people on the fence to not do it. You won’t get them all, but if it saves even one child, it’s worth it.

I agree with what you’re saying. They got the phone from Carrier A with the expectation the phone plan went with it. Once the phone is paid off, they can take the phone to Carrier B. Since they phone is basically bought on an interest free loan, the interest is recouped by the plan, and the collateral for not paying is a loss of the phone plan and use of the phone. To leave the plan, payoff the phone.

That does require that, the moment the phone is paid off, it should be automatically unlocked. There shouldn’t have to be a request or additional waiting. And the customer should be notified that it’s unlocked along with an explanation that they can now use the phone with any other provider.

This was occurring for me also since 9/20. I deleted all cookies on chatgpt, reloaded the site, and logged back in. It would work for 20 to 30 minutes then do it again. Each time, the browser console would have a ton of 503 errors.

It seems that some of their nodes are working and some are in failure state. Their load balancer is occasionally directing to failed nodes.

If that were the case, how did you know to post about it?

If you’re getting water inside, Jchannel is probably the least of your concerns. Something isn’t sealed correctly. Unfortunately, if you have water getting in, you have water in your wall. Even if you seal the window, you could end up with a mold issue.

If it was me, I’d pull the window, ensure all flashing and housewrap is in place, the reseat the window in a thick bead of silicone. Assuming the window is still in good shape. Otherwise, a new window is needed. Once the window is in place, trim, jchannel, and siding would be put back.

Once the window is properly installed, I’d focus on the inside. Pull the trim and drywall around the window, letting it air out for a day then coat the inside sheeting with mold killing primer. New insulation would be added before new drywall is put in. Then mud, sand, paint, and reinstall the trim.

It’s a decent amount of work, but not insurmountable. My concern is, if it was installed incorrectly, chances are, your other windows were too. I’m not trying to be doom and gloom here, just trying to forewarn you. It’s something to keep an eye on.

All of this is assuming the problem isn’t something like a window left open or something like that.

Thanks Sata . . . What the fuck is wrong with you? Who hurt you? You will live rent free in my head for a long time. Just so you know, I hate you for that. You magnificent bastard, you. Bravo. Bra fucking vo. 👏👏

The silver things are runners with ball bearings that drawer slides on. The slides that attach to the drawer will snap into these silver runners.

Usually, you just need to align the slides on the drawer with the runners and push. They should snap in. The runners tend to slide around while connecting them. If they slide to the back, it’s ok, they will still connect once you get them lined up and push the drawer into them. If you can reach from underneath, you can hold the runner in place while attaching the drawer. Do one side at a time.

If you’re struggling to get it to connect, I recommend removing the slide from the side of the drawer and seeing if you can get a single slide to attach to the runner. It will click when it attaches. By doing just one, you might have an easier time seeing how it connects.

Once you figure it out, you’ll need to disconnect it. There should be a little plastic lever that you hold down (or up, depending on the side) while you pull out the slide. Put it back on the drawer and see if you can connect it once it’s back on the drawer.

They are a little complicated, but once you see how it goes together, it should make sense. If what I said is still confusing or if you are still struggling, reply and I’ll see if I can get some pictures to explain it better.

• Edit: A common mistake I’ve seen is putting the slides on the drawer backwards. The part attached to the drawer should have the flat part against the drawer. The drawer should look like this ]|_______|[

Good luck to you. Post the results when you finish. I’m sure more than just me would like to see it

Shellac is not the same as oil based. Oil based is made from, well, oil. Shelllac is made by crushing the shells of the lac bug. It is an insect that is cultivated specifically for the purpose. Shellac is typically used as a final coat for protection. Shellac primer is basically that mixed with a white pigment. It is great for sealing. Fairly pricy though.

I will echo the Bondo route that others suggested. The big box hardware stores sell quart cans of general purpose Bondo in the paint aisle.

Cut out the vaneer over the bad area with a razor blade or box cutter.

Sand with 80 or 120 grit to remove any loose bits of the board. The particle board will crumble a little, but it will be fine. Just dont go overboard. Vacuum it to remove most dust.

Using a flexible putty knife, get one to two globs of Bondo on a clean piece of cardboard. Don’t do too much as you will have about 5 minutes of working time once the hardener is added. Follow the instructions on how much hardener to add, you wont need much. Fold the hardener into the Bondo with the putty knife until it is a uniform color.

Spread the bondo over the area you cut out. Try to get it smooth, but dont overwork it. It doesn’t have to be perfect.

Using 60 or 80 grit paper, sand it as it starts to dry. If it is gumming up the paper, it is still too wet to sand, give it another minute or two and try again. You are shaping it with this step. If you let it completely dry, it is hard as a rock and more difficult to sand.

Once it is in a good shape, switch to the next step up for sanding and repeat (60 to 80 to 120 to 180 to 220). Do not skip gits or you will just make work for yourself. You can probably stop at 180, but since it is next to vaneer, i’d go to 220. Again, if it is gumming the paper, wait a few minutes. Once you are at 220, use it to sand the entire cabinet to rough up the surface and accept primer better.

Once sanded, wipe the entire cabinet down with a tac cloth. I also recommend wiping the cabinets with a wax and greese remover so everything will stick better.

Now it is time for primer and paint. For a smooth finish, use a good quality foam mini-roller and foam brush for tighter areas.

Prime the cabinet using any water-based primer; killz is pretty good. They make an oil based that would be better, but will smell up your whole house, so I don’t recommend it unless you have excellent ventilation.

Lightly sand the peimer once it is fully dried with 220. If any spot is too light, do a second coat. Wipe up the dust.

Paint with an alkyd paint. Do at least 2 coats.

Not necessary, but if you want extra protection, you could use a foam brush (not a roller here) and do 3 to 4 coats of a water-based polyurethane on top of the paint. It might be overkill for what you want though.

This might seem like a lot, but you will have a great finish when done. Also, fair warning, Bondo has a strong smell. Open a window.

There isn’t enough in the picture to be 100% certain. In no particular order, these are the three things that I would check first:

1. The cable could be too short on that side
2. The track could be slightly too high on that side
3. The floor is angled and has a natural gap

My misunderstanding. I thought you meant from the heater to the floor.

To fix the gap you were talking about, you could do some acrylic caulking. You could do high heat silicone if you were worried about the heat, but the acrylic should be fine. Check the tube for the allowed heat range. The silicone will do vetter against the expansion and contraction, but you’d never be able to paint it. The acrylic would be paintable. But had a high chance of cracking.

You need the gap. Baseboard heaters work by heating the air around it, causing it to rise. This rising air is replaced by the cool air being displaced. By having a gap under the heater, the cool air has a place to go and be heated. This causes a draft that allows the full room to be heated, not just the area around the baseboards. In essence, the gap allows the heater to be more efficient.

If you insist on covering it, use a sheet of decorative metal that is at least partially open to allow airflow through it. Even that will reduce efficiency, but it wont be as bad as blocking it.

A quarter has 13 weeks, so if you do 2 week sprints and align them to start with a quarter, there is 1 week per quarter that is not accounted for. That week can be used for stuff outside of daily activities. It can be used for training, offsites, working on a pet project, etc. Its a good way to build time in the schedule for this type of thing. These types of breaks have tremendous long term value.

I’ll echo what others said about the aluminum tape. Make sure it is a good one, not a cheap one. You might want to take a damp rag to the area first. Any dust will stop it from sticking. Make sure to let it dry too.

Mastic could work as well. Get a tub of it and a chip brush or two… and don’t forget gloves. It sticks to everything and is rubberized, so it holds up very well. The only downside is that it makes a mess very easily.

Then why would the company be against paying minimum wage?

I like some of the concepts of agile and scrum. Two week sprints rather than multi-year projects. Faster turn around on bugs. Having a prioritized backlog so we know what we are doing next. Small standups to get ahead of blockers. Spending less time documenting everything and more time developing. You don’t need a PM or scrum master in those things. A good team lead can do it. If the PM needs an update, they can look at the board.

A lot of the crap that gets add in to it is so freaking useless. There is an AVP at my company that keeps pushing everyone to sign and share team agreements so “there can accountability.” It’s so cringy. If someone is getting stuff done, do you really think having them sign something saying they will do it is going to help? If someone is getting stuff done, then it isn’t going to change anything. It’s infantalizing. So much of it is micromanagement and lack of team trust.